Wordless Wednesday

Falling Into Place

Foreground; Acer palmatum Tamukeyama

It’s been a rainy day– so much so that Halloween activities were rescheduled to Nov. 1 due to the predicted downpours and wind gusts. As I stepped outdoors on Halloween morning, it was already wet and windy, but autumn’s brilliance still shown through the dark skies. 

Two years in, the new tree additions in the back yard are beginning to make their presence known. No more is this true than in autumn. Shades of gold, red, purple, and orange are just what this otherwise barren landscape needed. Don’t get me wrong. I love all the green shades that spring and summer provide, but when autumn arrives, I crave fall color.

Some of the new additions are still staked, while others grow within low cages designed to keep out bark-nibbling critters. There’s plenty of room for more, but it’s hard to choose what should be planted next. So for now, I’ll just enjoy the burst of color and admire how it’s all falling into place.

Garden Bloggers' Bloom Day - October 2012

So, here we are. It’s officially fall and not much is blooming, at least not in my garden. I do have a couple of things to share though. We’ve had two frosts and temps in the lower 30s already, but despite these two occurrences, the Geraniums (annual and perennial) are still blooming. Above, the pink flower is an annual from the Caliente Geranium series (Geranium Pelargonium). What I love about this variety, aside from its blooming power, is the semi-trailing habit. It’s perfect for containers where you need a little ‘spill’ action over the sides. I’ve deconstructed my summer pots already, but could not bring myself to get rid of these beauties.

Pictured above, Rozanne Geranium was a plant I kept my eye on all season at the garden center. I was told that this particular plant was a prolific bloomer and would bloom till a hard killing frost. As the season went on, the plants in pots indeed kept blooming. We sold them by the hundreds and my curiosity got the best of me. In late September, I finally took the plunge and purchased five plants to try in my own garden. True to form, they have kept blooming. Wayside Gardens calls this plant “The Geranium of the Millennium!”  The blooms are brilliant and seem to glow in the garden beds. I plan to line the sunny area below the Juniper (pictured below) if the plants survive our Zone 5 & 6 winter.

Even from a distance, the five small Rozanne Geranium have a presence. Imagine what they’ll look like when they mature. If all goes well, I will add up to six more plants to this area.

Earlier this spring I planted one Heptacodium miconioides– a large fountain-shaped, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub. The common name of this shrub is Seven-Son Flower. The blooms are actually white (in September), but more interesting than that are the small purplish-red fruits that follow. They are crowned by five showy, sepal-like pink calyces that elongate after the bloom. They last into late fall. In winter, this shrub’s tan bark will exfoliate and reveal an attractive brown inner bark. It was only recently that I learned this plant is native to China. Unknowingly, I somehow always gravitate to plants whose origins are Asian.

Ok, technically not a bloom, the foliage of Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is so showy that I had to include it in this post. I have a couple of favorite plants this year, and this one ranks right up there. As the temperatures have cooled, the tips of the foliage have taken on reddish-pink tones. I’m making it a point to learn more about Euphorbia this winter.

Sedum Autumn Joy is always a fall favorite. The large mass by the creek bank is always beautiful this time of year. The blooms have started turning their tell tale color of deep bronzy-red.

Looking back at the house from the creek, it’s hard to believe that summer is finally over. The fall rains have created a verdant lawn which compliments the onset of autumnal tones in the trees.

Garden Bloggers’ Bloom Day is a Meme created by Carol at May Dreams Gardens. Gardeners post images of what’s blooming in their garden on the 15th day of every month. To see what’s blooming all over the world today, visit Carol’s blog.

September Reflection and Thanksgiving

But now in September the garden has cooled, and with it my possessiveness. The sun warms my back instead of beating on my head … The harvest has dwindled, and I have grown apart from the intense midsummer relationship that brought it on.

- Robert Finch

September has always been a favorite month of mine. The prelude to fall, my favorite garden season, I relish in the transition from searing summer to cool crisp days. The slower the better. My visual side obsesses with the hues of autumn. Cooking, in particular roasting, begins to peak my interest again, and the rush to get last minute perennials, trees, and shrubs into the ground before September’s end revives my gardener spirit no matter how long and hot the summer was.

I stayed home from work today with a nasty head cold. Being sick is no fun, but I am happy for a bit of time to sit and reflect as we anticipate another rainfall this afternoon. I miss the garden center when I’m not there. It’s an exciting time as we are receiving shipments almost as frequently as in spring. Though this time, it’s mums, corn shocks, bails of straw including bittie bails (so cute), asters, pumpkins, gourds, plus all sorts trees and shrubs. Yes, fall is just around the corner.

It seems like only yesterday the sun would beat me to chase as I would begin the 6AM ritual of endless watering in the muggy morning air. The changes of the season are certainly in the air, and the sight of my breath in the cool morning air does not bother me as much as the prospect of waking to a dark sky. Fall provides an opportunity to exhale and time to reflect on what was accomplished during the summer months. Many things were planted despite a scorching summer sans rain. I made a pact with the garden to remain focused and steadfast on plant material that I refused to lose. Today, I can look out among the lawns and smile proudly, not only at the fact that we made it, but that many are thriving. Although we have not balanced the rain deficit, we have had enough for things to break dormancy and come back with a vengeance. New growth abounds. Let’s hope for a late winter.

It’s a little early for Thanksgiving, but it’s always appropriate to be thankful. Today, I am thankful for all the wonderful gardeners and growers who have taken the time to teach me a thing or two. You know who you are, and your garden wisdom is paying off.

Autumn at Sutherland

It’s been a dazzling fall at Sutherland; mornings crisp and clear, the daylight golden and foliage brilliant. Autumn is by far the most interesting time of year around this place with so many things in various states of decay, others hanging on for a final encore. Shadows are long and low, silhouettes revealed and trees sing out with the familiar rustle of parched leaves as they give way to the earth. It’s the sound of summer saying goodbye. Or is it winter saying hello?

As customary with a blogging gardener, I present you my fall as captured between chores and strolls at Sutherland. 

How to Plant a Tree

Trees and Shrubs 50% Off! Most Garden Centers and Nurseries have great sales this time of year to reduce inventory before winter. The good news for you is that fall is a perfect time to plant trees because the soil temperature is still warm enough to allow good root development, and close enough to winter so the tree goes into dormancy naturally. The advantage to the latter is that you don’t have to constantly water as you would during hot summer months. In some regions, you can plant into late November if the soil is tillable and remains unfrozen.

Garden Centers and nurseries typically sell trees that are either Balled and Burlapped or Containerized. Containerized trees are ever more popular since they are lighter weight and easier to move around. Here are the differences in the two:

Balled and burlapped (B&B) - These plants are dug from a production field with an undisturbed ball of soil around the roots. Workers wrap the soil in burlap, bind them with twine or wire and pin them together with nails. They may place the ball in a wire framework or basket.

Container Grown Trees. Photo ©Eaton Farms

Containerized Trees - Nurseries sell these in pots. These plants may have grown in the container for a year or more; may have been dug bare-root and planted in the pot earlier that year; or may have been field-grown, dug with a soil ball, and potted. Both B & B and containerized plants usually cost more than bare root plants. However, since you move soil with the roots, the plant is more likely to survive.

Trees are less commonly sold as Bare-root or Machine-balled trees.

Bare-root - These are usually the least expensive nursery plants. Nursery workers dig them when they’re dormant. You must protect the roots from drying out and from mechanical damage. You should plant them only while they are dormant.

Machine-balled - Nursery workers dig these plants bare-root, then pack the roots in sphagnum peat moss or wood shavings and wrap them in plastic. Handle them carefully to avoid breaking roots. These, too, should be planted while they’re still dormant.

Handle B&B and containerized plants by the soil ball or pot only. Avoid lifting them by the trunk or crown. Be sure to water them to keep the soil moist (usually once a day), but don’t stand the root ball or the container in water.

Plan Before You Plant

Select trees that are right for your site. Ask yourself what role you want your tree to play. The center of attention? Part of a living wall that screens or divides an area? A compliment to an existing tree? Look at the space where you are going to plant and estimate the height and diameter of a mature tree that will fit there. Be conscious of the shade pattern that will be created when the tree matures. Research the species to confirm whether or not the tree produces any type of fruit. Fruit drop can be messy and aggravating in high traffic areas.

Check your site to see if the soil drains well or stays wet. Improving soil drainage and aeration on a large scale is difficult and expensive. If you can’t extensively rework a poorly drained site, be sure to select plant species that can tolerate soggy or clayey conditions.

The last step in planning is to select the right specimen. Research online or work with a reputable nursery/garden center to finalize your selections. Having all your site requirements will speed up the selection process immensely.

Tip for making a purchase: I never buy trees at big box stores because they simply don’t look well cared for. They often have many broken branches which are a sign of mistreatment.

The Planting Process

Be sure that the containerized tree has been watered recently, within a few hours of planting.

Dig a shallow, broad hole. In general, you want the soil level of the original container to match the soil level of the new location. Dig only as deep as the root ball.

The width of the hole is just as important as the depth. You want the width two to three times the width of the original container. I like to dig the bottom of the hole twice as wide as the container and flare out so the top of the hole is equal to three times the width of the container. A cross section of the hole would look like a cupcake or muffin- wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. This loosens compacted soil for the roots to easily expand as they grow. Tip: Set the soil from the hole onto a tarp or plastic sheet to make cleanup easier.

Find the root flare. This is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point must be partially visible after the tree has been planted. If it is not partially visible, you might have to remove a bit of soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine the proper depth of the hole for planting. Once the hole is dug, tamp down the soil at the base to prevent unexpected settling. Next, carefully remove the tree from the container. Note: Always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk. With your fingers, gently loosen the soil around the root ball (including the bottom). This action ‘communicates’ to the roots that they are no longer in a pot and can grow outward beyond the shape of the container. If you see ANY long roots that completely encircle the root ball, cut them off. Likewise, remove any fabric, plastic, string or wire from around the trunk and root ball being careful not to damage the roots or trunk in the process.

Place the tree in the hole. Check the depth again and adjust if necessary. Fact: Most of the roots of a newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. Planting too deep will create a lack of oxygen and the new roots will have difficulty developing. Tip: Never bury the root flare. It’s better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the root flare, than to plant it below the original growing level. My friend Kevin Collard has a little saying that’s easy to remember and a good rule of thumb: “Plant ’em low, they’ll never grow.”

Before backfilling, stand back and view the tree from many different angles to confirm it is straight. Mix the topsoil and subsoil together and begin backfilling. Most of the time, you can use the same soil that came out of the hole to backfill. You can even add some organic matter to the mix. To avoid burning roots, never add dry fertilizers or fresh manure to the backfill mix.

Backfill the hole three-fourths full and fill it with water. Let the water drain. This settles the soil and eliminates air pockets around the roots. Do not pack the soil after it’s been watered. Check one more time to make sure the root flare has not settled below the ground level. Finish filling the hole.

Protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. Now is the time to stake the tree to stabalize it. Drive stakes deep enough to hit undisturbed ground. Be careful not to drive stakes into the root ball and risk damaging the roots. Materials used to tie the tree to the stake should be flexible and allow for some movement all the way down to the ground so the trunk develops correctly. Tip: Recycle old garden hose by threading wire through a piece and looping it around the trunk. Make loops loose to avoid damaging the tree.

Important Note: Remove all staking after one complete growing season or one year. It’s not a good idea to leave the tree staked for more than one year.

Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch will help hold moisture and reduce competition from grass and weeds. You can mulch with many different organic matters such as leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A layer of 2 to 4 inches is ideal. More than 4 inches may interfere with oxygen and moisture levels. NEVER allow the mulch to touch the trunk. Keep it at least 6 inches away to avoid decaying the living bark at the base of the tree. You can mulch out as far as the drip line of the tree. Remember this phrase when mulching: “Go wide, not deep.”

Barring any rain, water your tree at least once a week. Keep watering until mid-fall, then taper off as lower temperatures set in. If you’re subject to dry summers, maintain a regular watering program for at least two growing seasons. Prune off any badly damaged or broken branches right after planting. Avoid any additional corrective pruning for at least one year.

Following these easy steps will ensure that your trees grow and thrive. When questions arise about caring for your tree, be sure to consult with your local Extension Office, a Certified Arborist or a garden center professional. 

Planting Peonies

Herbaceous Peonies are my favorite flower. Whether in the garden, a photograph, painting or as a cut flower, the lush petals and voluptuous blossoms mesmerize me and take me back to my childhood where nearly every farm had a few random peonies planted here and there. As a child, I took great interest in the ants that marched all over the flower buds. Everyone believed the ants were necessary for the buds to open. We now know this is only a myth. The ants are simply attracted to the nectar that forms on the outside of the bud. I will admit, it’s still fun to imagine those little guys are somehow responsible for all the gorgeous blooms.

We have planted nearly 30 peonies at Sutherland over the last three years. Some inherited, others selected from the vast inventory at Peony’s Envy. Last week, I had the pleasure of meeting Kathleen Gagan, proprietor of Peony’s Envy and purchased two more white historic cultivars to add to our collection. The bare roots from Peony’s Envy are packed in peat moss and shipped when they are dormant (spring and fall). A beautiful label identifies the variety by name and displays a lovely color photograph of the bloom. The label also contains pertinent information such as shape and color description, bloom time, size, and hybrid provenance.

Fall and early winter are excellent times to plant bare-root peonies. You can plant up until permanent frost or in spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Site selection is important too. Peonies need sun to bloom- at least 5 hours of full sun a day. Plant in less sun and they will take longer to mature and flower.

Peonies can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions including clay, so long as it is not constantly wet. Sandy soils are not ideal because nutrients leech out of the soil easily. Sandy soil should be amended with clay and compost to create a suitable growing condition. Regardless, the soil must drain well. Peonies do not tolerate wet feet!

I’m always surprised when I see bare-root stock. As gardeners, we are often so focused on what is happening above the ground that we forget what is going on beneath it. The root divisions from Peony’s Envy are a good reminder of this phenomenon. Each division contains three to five eyes, pink or white buds located on the crown that will become next year’s stems, and a substantial tuberous root system.

Let’s Get Planting

Don’t be intimated by the strange gnarled clump of root. Start by inspecting it for size. You will need to dig a hole about 1 foot deep by 10 to 12 inches wide. Remove any rocks and loosen the soil that has been removed from the hole breaking up any clumps. If you have heavy clay soil, you may want to amend your soil with some good compost. You may also add a slow release fertilizer that is low in nitrogen, such as bone meal or bulb tone.

Hold the root in the hole and lower it until the top part (also known as the crown) is ½ to 1 inch beneath the ground surface. Here’s a tip: Lay the handle of a shovel or rake across the hole to create a surface-level guide. Reminder: Keep the crown facing upward and tubors (carrot-like shapes) pointing downward. With the root centered in the hole, gently backfill with the loose soil keeping the root position as vertical as possible. As you backfill, gently press down to remove any air pockets around the roots. If the top sinks beneath the desired depth, lift the root so it does not settle below 1.5 inches.

Once planted, water in well and avoid mulching over the crown. Mulching changes your planting depth and can insulate the plant causing it to not flower. Planting too deep is a very common mistake. Over the next two growing seasons, make sure you give your peonies a good soaking every two or three weeks if it is not raining regularly. This allows the roots to develop and send out a healthy fibrous system. Be careful not to overwater because the plants will not tolerate wet feet. Allow the soil to dry out fully between watering.

 

Note about Planting Depth & Hardiness Zones: Herbaceous peonies grow well in zones 3 to 8. Peonies should be planted deeper in lower numbered zones and more shallow in higher numbered zones. In Indiana (Zone 5) we plant at a 1 inch depth.

What To Expect
 

Blooms on a young plant are typically not true to their form. It takes about 3 years for a plant to fully establish. Removing first year buds will promote the best root growth. With a little patience and care, you’ll have gorgeous peonies blooming for decades.

For a sensational selection of Herbaceous, Intersectional and Tree Peonies, visit peonysenvy.com.

Ants, bouquet, and spring progression photos copyright Peony’s Envy.

Savor the Moments

Last week I gave the Limelight Hydrangeas a heavy prune just before the first blast of cold temps swept in. Since these are paniculata hydrangeas, they will withstand hard pruning in late fall, winter, or early spring because they bloom on new wood. (More on that in a different post) When all was done though, I found it difficult to part with all the large dried blossoms. I decided to keep a few and bring them indoors, a practice I’d reserved for ‘living’ blooms only. I selected the heaviest glass vase to support the weight and started arranging them one stem at a time. As I lifted each stem, I marveled at the size and kept thinking back to summer and how magnificent they were then, and how beautiful they were still. Now, I don’t endorse this type of arrangement for a proper dining setting, but it does work well as a decorative display. I flanked the arrangement with platters of ornamental pumpkins which were grown in the vegetable garden. Voila! A beautiful autumnal arrangement. So, why hang on to this stuff? Well, it’s complicated, but I’ll try to explain it.

Gardening has deepened my connection with the earth. And more than that, it has led me to investigate the relationships that all living things share. This is especially true of the relationship we have with time. Every day, every season, every year. Passing, passing, passing. The garden is a reminder that nothing lasts. Still, between all the passing stages, we get a transition phase. And it’s what you do with the transition that enables you to pass onto the next phase smoothly. Steadily. These little pumpkins and dried hydrangeas, they’re part of my transition phase. A reminder of what was accomplished. Evidence of something beautiful. And more importantly, inspiration for what is possible.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Savor the moments.

Fall Color Report

Beautiful colors and textures abound at Sutherland all year long, but fall is always the most spectacular season. Take a look at some of my favorite hues from around the property.

These Limelight Hydrangea blossoms transformed from light green to creamy white during summer. In their final stage, they are becoming more golden and parchment brown. Their texture is very papery.

Another view of the Hydrangeas with bright yellow Chrysanthemums in the foreground. The mums are also beginning to turn a bit brown around the edges.

Toward the creek, this lone Maple tree is slowly turning. Weather permitting, it will be fiery red before total leaf drop. It really stands out against the White Pines in the background.

These Sedum plants were collected from all over the property. They were moved near the creek bank a couple of years ago and are much more impressive as a single mass.

A fading Hosta with brilliant yellow and chartreuse hues. This is Hosta ‘Liberty’.

Oak Leaf Hydrangeas are a favorite around Sutherland. One of the few hydrangeas native to the United States, the leaves often turn brilliant red, orange, and burgundy in the fall. I just love the leathery texture of the leaves.

Rain has been scarce in Indianapolis so every drop is welcome. Although melancholy, the greys on this warm rainy day are soothing and serve as a reminder of what lies ahead.

End of Season Chores

Fall has arrived. Reluctantly, I begin to deconstruct all the containers which have been so prolific this year. But before I can begin planning next year’s compositions, I must property clean and store my terra cotta pots for a long winter’s nap. Here’s how I do it.

The first step is to remove all the plant material from the containers. This is always the saddest part because many of the annuals are in such good condition still.

I’m transferring all the soil to the garden cart so it can be hauled away in bulk. Notice the shard that was in the bottom of the pot for drainage. I’m going to save any good shards and use them again next year.

Extra large containers are too heavy for one person to be moving around. For these, I use a shovel to transfer the soil into a bucket. The bucket is much more manageable as there are several stairs down to the garden cart.

Above: My trusty pot brush. I love all the beautiful foliage in the back yard.

Now for the not-so-fun part… washing the pots. This task always leaves me with wet sleeves and pants. Not fun on a cold day! My tips for cleaning are:

• Watch your weather forecast and plan this activity on a warm sunny day.
• Prepare a mild water/bleach bath for dipping the washed pots. I use a 1:10 ratio of bleach to water in a galvanized tub.
• Have your garden hose with sprayer nozzle at hand.
• Use a sturdy brush to scrub the pots inside and out. Any stiff brush will do. You could even used a dish scrubber or fine steel wool.
• Locate an area for the pots to dry before moving to dry storage.

After a good scrubbing and rinse, I dip in a mild bleach and water solution. This kills off any bacteria, viruses and fungi. They should soak in the solution for about 30 minutes. Bleach can weaken materials over time, so make sure you are working with a very dilute solution.

Some of the pots have developed a white crust on the outside. This can be caused by salts in fertilizers passing through the porous pot’s walls. To clean off, try a baking soda paste. Personally, I love the crusty character and aged look.

Almost done. After the pots are completely dry, I place everything on shelves in the garage over winter. I store the pots upside down and out of the way of heavy traffic to avoid any breakage. It’s best to avoid stacking because the pots can get stuck and break when you try to separate them. However, if you must stack, make sure they are loose. You might even wrap them with bubble wrap or unprinted newsprint to avoid breaking and sticking. Because of the unpredictable winters in Zone 5, I never store outside. If you can’t winterize indoors, I suppose it would be best to keep them massed together, upside down (so they can’t hold water), off the ground, and insulated. Southern exposure would be ideal.

Well, back to work! There’s more clean up to do before I can begin dreaming up container recipes for next year.

What do your end of season chores consist of?