Hardscape Maintenance With Polymeric Sand

I know, I know. I should be posting about winter interest in the garden and feeling warm and fuzzy about the holidays, but I’m still in work mode. Warm and fuzzy will have to wait. Today, I’m writing about an important task that I recently completed which focused on the hardscape instead of the landscape. Years ago, I had a limestone sidewalk installed, and while the stone is in great shape (developing a lovely patina) the joints between the stones needed some upkeep. I added Polymeric Sand to the joints- a task I find myself doing at least every other season. And while it’s not difficult, this job has many steps.

What is Polymeric Sand? Before we get into the project details, I would like to take a moment to explain what Polymeric Sand is (sometimes referred to as Polymeric Joint Sand) and why it is beneficial to hardscapes comprised of concrete pavers, cast stone, pavements, slabs, and natural stone products.

Polymeric Sand is a fine sand with additives, such as silica and polymers which form a binding agent with the introduction of water. The binding agents lock the individual sand particles together, which in turn form a solid yet flexible bond between joints of pavers or slabs.

Benefits of Polymeric Sand. First, you get improved durability. The binding agent increases the strength of the walkway or patio. The binders allow less water into the gaps and that helps keep your foundation more sturdy.

Ordinary sand can quickly wash out or splash out with heavy rains. Loose sand also sticks to shoes and bare feet which can be tracked into your house. This is reduced tremendously with Polymeric Sand.

As gardeners, we know weeds can grow anywhere. They will grow prolifically in sand, but not so much in Polymeric Sand. We do enough weeding in our beds, we don’t need to be doing it in our hardscapes.

Ants have a difficult time making homes (or cities) within the Polymeric Sand joints. Another bonus in my opinion since ant colonies can loosen and shift regular sand with little effort.

Project Description: Readjust stones as needed and refresh joints with new Polymeric Sand.

This front walkway is made of Indiana Limestone. Over the past few years, the elements have shifted a few of the stones pieces and some the joints needed refilled. I decided to remove all the old stuff and add new. Some of the joints were ok while others were in desperate need refilling. Above: Over time, movement has occurred which is reflected in the uneven spacing between the joints. The gentle arc on the outside edge is now an eye sore due to the shifting. 

I carefully loosened and pushed out the older material with a screwdriver- being careful not to scratch the stone surface. To my surprise, much of the old Poly was still holding together well. You can see the binding agents still at work in the pieces I lifted out. Above: Notice the grass beginning to grow in the joint (upper right) where the old Poly Sand has eroded. Over time the joint has collect soil and debris making it possible for weeds and grass to germinate.

I ran a shop vac over all the joints to get as much loose sand and debris out of the joints.

Next I carefully lifted and repositioned a few of the stones which had moved out of alignment. This takes time and patience! Large stones require many subtle adjustments to keep them level with the other pieces.

With the stones repositioned and the joints empty, it’s time to add the new Poly Sand. Simply open the bag and spread the sand evenly over the surface. Use a push broom to sweep it in until it’s at the proper depth below the top surface. The depth will vary according the brand of sand you use. It will expand (rise up) when it comes in contact with the water.

Remove as much of the extra product from the surface once the joints are adequately filled. I used a broom and gently blew off excess with a hand held leaf blower.

Next, use a spray nozzle attached to a garden hose on the “shower” setting to begin adding water. Take care to not wash out any sand. Let the water gently soak into the joints. Follow the rate and rest period for water application as noted on the product’s instructions. This is not the time to grab a beer or chat with the neighbor. Stay on task so the product sets up properly.

Last, sweep and or blow any excess water and sand off the surface to avoid any adherence or discoloration to the stones or pavers.

And that’s that. Whether you have concrete pavers, retaining walls or natural stone they will all require some maintenance in order to keep them looking their best. Polymeric Sand installation to fill joints and restabalize your pavers is an easy DIY project. Always read and follow the instructions on the package of the product you use.

Final notes. Don’t rush any of the steps. If you’re adding Polymeric Sand to a new project, you’ll most likely need a heavy duty tamper to settle it into the joints. This is not as necessary for reapplying to an existing area. Polymeric Sand is available in different colors.

I used PolySweep by SEK and purchased it at an architectural and landscape stone center. There are many brands available, but like anything, you get what you pay for. For best results, try to get a professional grade product from a specialty outlet.

Lawn Mowing Guidelines

Mowing season is here again. Follow these guidelines for a great looking lawn. This is a repost from 2011.

The secret to a great looking lawn lies in the mowing. Sure, you may need to fertilize or use a herbicide from time to time, but proper mowing can help your lawn look lush and healthy all season long while reducing the need for frequent chemical applications. Follow my mowing guidelines (riding or pushing) to stay on the cutting edge: 

  • Mow at 2.5 to 3.5 inches
  • Mow frequently
  • Return the clippings to the lawn
  • Fertilize in the fall

Let’s break it down…

Mowing Height

There are many benefits to keeping your mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Chief among them is weed control.

It may seem counterintuitive, but mowing too short will increase weeds in the lawn. Like most plants, weeds want and need sun to grow. If you mow your lawn really short, you’re just giving them what they want. Consequently, weeds such as crabgrass and dandelions will proliferate. So set your mower at the preferred height and leave it there all season. It will minimize weed population.

Most species of grass do well with a mowing height anywhere between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. I think 3 inches looks great and is easy to remember. If you have a play area for children, I recommend you mow at 3.5 inches. It will feel luxurious and help soften their fall.

Lawns that are mowed at the recommended height will have deeper, stronger root systems and better color overall.

Mow Frequently

Mow frequently and follow the “One-Third Rule”– never remove more than one-third of the leaf blades at once. Removing more than one-third may cause root growth to cease while the leaves and shoots are regrowing. When growth is most active (spring), you may need to mow up to twice a week, but only once every 2 to 3 weeks when growth is less vigorous (summer).

Return the Clippings

It’s ok to let the clippings fall back onto the lawn as long as you aren’t leaving a dense layer. And, it doesn’t matter if you have a mulching mower or not, a discharge mower returns clippings just fine.

You return up to 25% of fertilizer nutrients back to the lawn in the clippings. And contrary to popular belief, clippings do NOT cause thatch build-up. See thatch note below. You will also help reduce water evaporation by returning the clippings. Bagging the grass takes a third more time to complete the job. Who wants that? 

Note on Thatch from University of Illinois Extension “The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade).”

One final point: if you must bag your clippings, please do not throw them in the trash. This can increase your trash by up to 10% and take up unnecessary space in landfills. A better option is to use the clippings as a mulch.

Fertilize in the Fall

This is an easy one. Like most people, I’m mowing very frequently in the spring and don’t need to increase mowing by stimulating growth with fertilizers. Fall fertilization promotes a healthy turf without stimulating excessive leaf growth.

If you’re inclined to fertilize only once a year, do it in September. If you would like to fertilize twice a year, do it in September and early November. And as always, read all fertilizer labels and follow the instructions.

Final Mowing Guidelines

  • Use a different mowing pattern each time you mow
  • DO NOT bump trees
  • Do not mow when there is drought stress
  • Do not mow when it is excessively wet

Be Safe

  • Pick up all debris before mowing
  • Keep hands and feet away from the blades

Be Environmentally Friendly

  • DO NOT discharge clippings into the street
  • Follow ozone alerts 

Mower Maintenance

  • Keep mowing equipment in good working condition
  • Have mower serviced prior to the heavy spring mowing period
  • Keep mower blades sharp for a clean crisp cut

TIP: A dull mower blade frays the ends of the blades and results in brown tips which are unsightly. Have mower blades sharpened prior to the heavy mowing season.

Autumn's Closing Door

As winter knocks on the garden door, I sieze every moment to survey the back lawn and take in the lingering autumn view. No fall is ever the same, and this year we are surprised to see several leaves still clinging on to the Chestnut Tree (upper left). Not so long ago, the heat was unbearable and droughty conditions threatened to wreak havoc. But now, the morning air is biting and often accompanied by frost crystals. The few hours of sunlight draw elongated shadows upon the terrain. The deciduous trees are but mere skeletons of their former voluminous selves. The time has come to wrap things up, and each day presents itself with all sorts of necessary tasks to be accomplished before the snow begins to fly.

Mid November and we are still planting. A practice that I am more comfortable with having worked at the nursery this year. As long as the earth is tillable, I’m game for planting trees, shrubs, even a few select perennials like Peonies.

These Peonies were given to me by a customer of Sundown Gardens, the garden center and nursery where I work. She indicated they had been purchased several years ago at Sundown when it was a peony farm. That was decades ago. I found it enchanting that they had come full circle- back to Sundown and now on to a new gardener’s home. This particular plant is Paeonia lactiflora ‘Monsieur Jules Elie’.


Other areas of the garden are getting cleaned up for the winter months. Leaves are raked out, branches and brambles pruned. Every year, I cut back my Limelight Hydrangeas and take out any branches that are growing into the plant. Limelights bloom on new growth, so there is no risk of cutting off next year’s blooms. I also take time to loosen and rake the mulch which has formed a hard crust over the top. I want to be sure that any moisture from rain or melting snow penetrates the mulch instead of running off.

Terra Cotta pots have been emptied and scrubbed to remove salt buildup from fertilizer and hard water deposits. They are ready for a dip in a bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) which will rid them of any lingering diseases and chemical residue that may have set in during the growing season.

While some plants are taking up residence in the garden, others will have to wait until next season. My Acer palmatum ‘Beni hime’ or ‘Beni hime’ Japanese Maple is one that shall remain homeless this winter. I simply can’t decide whether to plant him in the ground, or in a container.

I purchased the very small maple from Dannaher Landscaping & Nursery. They specialize in rare and unusual plants, especially conifers. This little Japanese maple was grafted by David Dannaher several years ago. It’s a dwarf grower whose annual growth rarely exceeds 1-2 inches per year. Because they are difficult to propagate, there aren’t many available for purchase. I just love the tiny leaves which are about the size of a penny.

And so, another Thanksgiving comes and goes. This is a time of year that is typically melancholy. But instead of feeling sadness for autumn’s closing door, I’m actually looking forward to winter’s arrival. I have worked hard to turn my gardening obsession into a full time career and more than ever, I welcome a little downtime.

In Like a Lamb…Spring Chores, Tips & Reminders

March is just around the corner and our weatherman is predicting mild and pleasant weather. Could 2012 be the Midwest’s year without a winter? Does that mean that March will go out like a lion? I certainly hope not. And that’s all we can really do– hope. No matter what, there are many things we can and should do throughout March in preparation of spring’s official arrival. Below is a list to help you get growing this season.

Spring Garden Chores and Reminders

  • Plan your vegetable garden before you plant. Ask yourself the following: How much space do you have? How much light does your plot get? Most vegetables require six hours of light each day. How much time can you dedicate to tending? What do you like to eat?
  • Start seeds indoors so they are ready to transplant when the soil temperature warms.
  • Mid-March is a good time to plant cool season crops such as cabbage, kale, chards, cauliflower and broccoli. A cool-season crop is defined as a vegetable that grows best with temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F. Cool-season crops can tolerate light to moderate frosts, but are intolerant of high summer temperatures.
  • If this is your first vegetable garden, have your soil tested before you plant. Your local Cooperative Extension Office can help with this.
  • Prepare garden beds by adding more organic material to your soil and work it in about 6 inches deep. This is a good yearly habit to get into.
  • Now is a great time to get your mower in for a tune-up or take blades in for sharpening. Do it before everybody else does to avoid long waiting periods for service.
  • Pick a day to bring out any patio furniture and clean, repair, or touch up as needed.
  • Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools. Organize your garden shed/work area.
  • While the garden is still dormant, take an objective look at “the bones” of your landscape and select areas that need improvement. Trees, evergreens, grasses and berry-covered shrubs will create structure and visual interest year round.
  • Order mulch for beds and borders.
  • On a sunny day, rake and pick-up fallen branches, twigs, leaves and any other debris from the winter months. Cut back ornamental grasses.
  • For a burst of color, fill a few containers with pansies as soon they become available. Pansies can tolerate frost and freezing temperatures. Resist the urge to purchase warm season annuals until the danger of frost has past.
  • Keep filling bird feeders this time of year as food is scarce in colder regions.

End of Season Chores

Fall has arrived. Reluctantly, I begin to deconstruct all the containers which have been so prolific this year. But before I can begin planning next year’s compositions, I must property clean and store my terra cotta pots for a long winter’s nap. Here’s how I do it.

The first step is to remove all the plant material from the containers. This is always the saddest part because many of the annuals are in such good condition still.

I’m transferring all the soil to the garden cart so it can be hauled away in bulk. Notice the shard that was in the bottom of the pot for drainage. I’m going to save any good shards and use them again next year.

Extra large containers are too heavy for one person to be moving around. For these, I use a shovel to transfer the soil into a bucket. The bucket is much more manageable as there are several stairs down to the garden cart.

Above: My trusty pot brush. I love all the beautiful foliage in the back yard.

Now for the not-so-fun part… washing the pots. This task always leaves me with wet sleeves and pants. Not fun on a cold day! My tips for cleaning are:

  • Watch your weather forecast and plan this activity on a warm sunny day.
  • Prepare a mild water/bleach bath for dipping the washed pots. I use a 1:10 ratio of bleach to water in a galvanized tub.
  • Have your garden hose with sprayer nozzle at hand.
  • Use a sturdy brush to scrub the pots inside and out. Any stiff brush will do. You could even used a dish scrubber or fine steel wool.
  • Locate an area for the pots to dry before moving to dry storage.

After a good scrubbing and rinse, I dip in a mild bleach and water solution. This kills off any bacteria, viruses and fungi. They should soak in the solution for about 30 minutes. Bleach can weaken materials over time, so make sure you are working with a very dilute solution.

Some of the pots have developed a white crust on the outside. This can be caused by salts in fertilizers passing through the porous pot’s walls. To clean off, try a baking soda paste. Personally, I love the crusty character and aged look.

Almost done. After the pots are completely dry, I place everything on shelves in the garage over winter. I store the pots upside down and out of the way of heavy traffic to avoid any breakage. It’s best to avoid stacking because the pots can get stuck and break when you try to separate them. However, if you must stack, make sure they are loose. You might even wrap them with bubble wrap or unprinted newsprint to avoid breaking and sticking. Because of the unpredictable winters in Zone 5, I never store outside. If you can’t winterize indoors, I suppose it would be best to keep them massed together, upside down (so they can’t hold water), off the ground, and insulated. Southern exposure would be ideal.

Well, back to work! There’s more clean up to do before I can begin dreaming up container recipes for next year.

What do your end of season chores consist of?