Too late to plant bulbs? We shall see.

I’ve been bad. I was given some bulbs this past autumn but for one reason or another, never got them in the ground. The ideal time to plant bulbs is about six weeks before the ground freezes in your area. This gives the bulbs time to root and establish themselves. We’ve already experienced one ground freeze about four weeks ago. Recently the snow melted and temps were in the 50s. I got busy and buried 75 tulip bulbs before the predicted rains began. But am I too late?

I’ve seen gardeners plant daffodils in the snow and they were beautiful the following spring. Below left: An images from a Master Gardener project I documented. The gardeners were planting daffodil bulbs in January snow. Below right: Great results despite the late planting.

This is my first time ever planting bulbs. It’s easy, but tedious if you have several bulbs to plant. It’s the digging that gets you. I don’t own one of those fancy bulb dibbles. I did all my digging with a trowel and fortunately have nice tillable soil to work with.

So, what is the best time to plant bulbs?

When the average nighttime temperature in your area is 40-to 50-degree range. For northern climates, plant in September or October, in warmer climates, you may need to plant in December or later.

If you plant too early, they might come up before the weather gets colds then die once frost comes. Planting too early can also lead to fungus or disease problems.

What if you miss the ideal time?

Let’s be honest. This happens, but don’t wait for spring or the next fall because bulbs do not survive above the ground indefinitely. If you find that you have bulbs that need to get in the ground, take your chances by planting them as soon as you can.

Here’s how I did it:

Step 1: I arranged the bulbs where I wanted them above ground. This helped me visualize the spacing and layout. Hard as you may try, it’s difficult to remember your layout once they’re underground. That’s why you start with everything layed out above ground.

Step 2: One by one, I dug a hole for each bulb. All bulbs should come with specific planting instructions. Generally speaking, tulip bulb holes should be 8 inches deep. Refer to the chart below for other bulb depth guidelines. Some bulbs will look nice planted in clumps rather than individually.

Step 3: With the hole prepared, I placed the bulb in the hole with the pointy-side up. I gently pressed the bulb into the bottom of the hole just to ensure that it did not roll or tip over. 

Step 4: Next, I gently sprinkled soil back in the hole being careful not let the bulb tip over as I filled in the soil. Once covered, I patted it down with my hands.

Step 5: You can lightly water the bulbs after planting to help begin the process of growing, but do not soak them or they may decay and die. I did not water as the soil was moist and rain was predicted for later that day.

So now I wait. The bulbs will lie dormant for the remainder of winter. I think it’s gonna work despite my procrastination. I did not add any bulb food or fertilizer as I figured these bulbs were already well fed and programmed for next spring. Hey, they’re lucky they even got in the ground!! Stay tuned for a progress report.

Hardscape Maintenance With Polymeric Sand

I know, I know. I should be posting about winter interest in the garden and feeling warm and fuzzy about the holidays, but I’m still in work mode. Warm and fuzzy will have to wait. Today, I’m writing about an important task that I recently completed which focused on the hardscape instead of the landscape. Years ago, I had a limestone sidewalk installed, and while the stone is in great shape (developing a lovely patina) the joints between the stones needed some upkeep. I added Polymeric Sand to the joints- a task I find myself doing at least every other season. And while it’s not difficult, this job has many steps.

What is Polymeric Sand? Before we get into the project details, I would like to take a moment to explain what Polymeric Sand is (sometimes referred to as Polymeric Joint Sand) and why it is beneficial to hardscapes comprised of concrete pavers, cast stone, pavements, slabs, and natural stone products.

Polymeric Sand is a fine sand with additives, such as silica and polymers which form a binding agent with the introduction of water. The binding agents lock the individual sand particles together, which in turn form a solid yet flexible bond between joints of pavers or slabs.

Benefits of Polymeric Sand. First, you get improved durability. The binding agent increases the strength of the walkway or patio. The binders allow less water into the gaps and that helps keep your foundation more sturdy.

Ordinary sand can quickly wash out or splash out with heavy rains. Loose sand also sticks to shoes and bare feet which can be tracked into your house. This is reduced tremendously with Polymeric Sand.

As gardeners, we know weeds can grow anywhere. They will grow prolifically in sand, but not so much in Polymeric Sand. We do enough weeding in our beds, we don’t need to be doing it in our hardscapes.

Ants have a difficult time making homes (or cities) within the Polymeric Sand joints. Another bonus in my opinion since ant colonies can loosen and shift regular sand with little effort.

Project Description: Readjust stones as needed and refresh joints with new Polymeric Sand.

This front walkway is made of Indiana Limestone. Over the past few years, the elements have shifted a few of the stones pieces and some the joints needed refilled. I decided to remove all the old stuff and add new. Some of the joints were ok while others were in desperate need refilling. Above: Over time, movement has occurred which is reflected in the uneven spacing between the joints. The gentle arc on the outside edge is now an eye sore due to the shifting. 

I carefully loosened and pushed out the older material with a screwdriver- being careful not to scratch the stone surface. To my surprise, much of the old Poly was still holding together well. You can see the binding agents still at work in the pieces I lifted out. Above: Notice the grass beginning to grow in the joint (upper right) where the old Poly Sand has eroded. Over time the joint has collect soil and debris making it possible for weeds and grass to germinate.

I ran a shop vac over all the joints to get as much loose sand and debris out of the joints.

Next I carefully lifted and repositioned a few of the stones which had moved out of alignment. This takes time and patience! Large stones require many subtle adjustments to keep them level with the other pieces.

With the stones repositioned and the joints empty, it’s time to add the new Poly Sand. Simply open the bag and spread the sand evenly over the surface. Use a push broom to sweep it in until it’s at the proper depth below the top surface. The depth will vary according the brand of sand you use. It will expand (rise up) when it comes in contact with the water.

Remove as much of the extra product from the surface once the joints are adequately filled. I used a broom and gently blew off excess with a hand held leaf blower.

Next, use a spray nozzle attached to a garden hose on the “shower” setting to begin adding water. Take care to not wash out any sand. Let the water gently soak into the joints. Follow the rate and rest period for water application as noted on the product’s instructions. This is not the time to grab a beer or chat with the neighbor. Stay on task so the product sets up properly.

Last, sweep and or blow any excess water and sand off the surface to avoid any adherence or discoloration to the stones or pavers.

And that’s that. Whether you have concrete pavers, retaining walls or natural stone they will all require some maintenance in order to keep them looking their best. Polymeric Sand installation to fill joints and restabalize your pavers is an easy DIY project. Always read and follow the instructions on the package of the product you use.

Final notes. Don’t rush any of the steps. If you’re adding Polymeric Sand to a new project, you’ll most likely need a heavy duty tamper to settle it into the joints. This is not as necessary for reapplying to an existing area. Polymeric Sand is available in different colors.

I used PolySweep by SEK and purchased it at an architectural and landscape stone center. There are many brands available, but like anything, you get what you pay for. For best results, try to get a professional grade product from a specialty outlet.

Saying Goodbye to Summer Annuals

It’s time to say goodbye to my summer annuals despite the temperate weather. In central Indiana, weather turns on a dime and procrastinating will only lead to a very chilly or wet time-consuming task. It’s hard to say goodbye after all the hard work that has gone into designing and caring for the containers. On a recent Sunday morning, I took a close look at the patio containers near the pool deck. I thought it would be fun to build the composition through video. So many times, I photograph individual pots and details never giving a sense of scale or composition. Though my video techniques are lacking finesse, I think you’ll get the idea of what the small poolside patio was like this season.

Click on the thumbnails below to find out more details. I’m starting to document my work with annuals more closely so I can reference the silhouettes and plant growing habits for future projects. Up to now, annuals were not a big deal to me, but as my role at the garden center advances, I am beginning to understand and appreciate their function in the landscape a bit more.

Question: Do annuals play a big role in your garden? 

White Bacopa spills over matching urns. The center plant is Dusty Miller ‘New Look’. It’s been fun watching the Bacopa grow and cover the entire urn bowl. In hindisght, I would not include the Dusty Miller.

The containers have filled out beautifully. Now would be a great time to mention that I am inspired and influence by the work of Deborah Silverman. If I ever get that good, I will be dangerous. ;)

I designed the entire patio and this container around White Mandevilla. New obelisks and pots were purchased specifically for this arrangement. As time goes on, I find that I keep utilizing larger pots for my designs.

The Mandevilla vines stretch out in hopes of grabbing onto something.

Nicotiana ‘Lime Green’ flowers were a nice compliment to all the other green foliage. The hue is light enough that I consider it a ‘shade’ of white.

Perhaps the most exhuberant of all the containers, this Alocasia is underplanted with White Scaevola. It’s high drama and high contrast pairing a tall large leaf plant with a shorter one. The Scaevola spills out around the entire pot creating a tutu effect.

This little guy looks like Cousin Itt from the Adams Family. This is Sedum ‘Lemon Coral.’ Since I use so many containers, I keep the combos simple, often times using only one type of plant per container. This allows me to create a larger and controlled effect. In other words, instead of cramming lots of different plants into one pot, I cram the uncomplicated pots together.

This combo was meant to be SunPatiens ‘Compact White Improved’ and Petite Licorice Plant, but the SunPatiens really dominated. They grew to 24” tall and were sturdy with large showy flowers. After all the hubbub about Downy Mildew on Impatiens, I had to try SunPatiens. Simply put, they performed– in sun! 

A detail of the SunPatiens container. Not to be overshadowed, the Licorice Plant did climb its way through the tall SunPatiens. Love SunPatiens– and my number one recommendation for annuals in the landscape!

In the end, it’s all about contrast. For the most dynamic effect, pair tiny foliage and blooms against large ones, dark colors against light, and vary heights to keep your eye dazzled and moving. The white blooms are Euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’ and the variegated leaf is Plectranthus ‘Aurea Marginata.’

Even in a dynamic display of annuals, it’s important to have repitition. It creates a rythmn and a place for your eye to pause while your mind’s eye catches its breath. These Boston Ferns called ‘Tiger Fern’ are arranged to take up a large space and visually create a calm moment.

When containers peter out, pop in a new annual. These mums adhere to the color scheme and will take the show into fall.

Lawn Mowing Guidelines

Mowing season is here again. Follow these guidelines for a great looking lawn. This is a repost from 2011.

The secret to a great looking lawn lies in the mowing. Sure, you may need to fertilize or use a herbicide from time to time, but proper mowing can help your lawn look lush and healthy all season long while reducing the need for frequent chemical applications. Follow my mowing guidelines (riding or pushing) to stay on the cutting edge: 

• Mow at 2.5 to 3.5 inches
• Mow frequently
• Return the clippings to the lawn
• Fertilize in the fall

Let’s break it down…

Mowing Height

There are many benefits to keeping your mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Chief among them is weed control.

It may seem counterintuitive, but mowing too short will increase weeds in the lawn. Like most plants, weeds want and need sun to grow. If you mow your lawn really short, you’re just giving them what they want. Consequently, weeds such as crabgrass and dandelions will proliferate. So set your mower at the preferred height and leave it there all season. It will minimize weed population.

Most species of grass do well with a mowing height anywhere between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. I think 3 inches looks great and is easy to remember. If you have a play area for children, I recommend you mow at 3.5 inches. It will feel luxurious and help soften their fall.

Lawns that are mowed at the recommended height will have deeper, stronger root systems and better color overall.

Mow Frequently

Mow frequently and follow the “One-Third Rule”– never remove more than one-third of the leaf blades at once. Removing more than one-third may cause root growth to cease while the leaves and shoots are regrowing. When growth is most active (spring), you may need to mow up to twice a week, but only once every 2 to 3 weeks when growth is less vigorous (summer).

Return the Clippings

It’s ok to let the clippings fall back onto the lawn as long as you aren’t leaving a dense layer. And, it doesn’t matter if you have a mulching mower or not, a discharge mower returns clippings just fine.

You return up to 25% of fertilizer nutrients back to the lawn in the clippings. And contrary to popular belief, clippings do NOT cause thatch build-up. See thatch note below. You will also help reduce water evaporation by returning the clippings. Bagging the grass takes a third more time to complete the job. Who wants that? 

Note on Thatch from University of Illinois Extension “The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade).”

One final point: if you must bag your clippings, please do not throw them in the trash. This can increase your trash by up to 10% and take up unnecessary space in landfills. A better option is to use the clippings as a mulch.

Fertilize in the Fall

This is an easy one. Like most people, I’m mowing very frequently in the spring and don’t need to increase mowing by stimulating growth with fertilizers. Fall fertilization promotes a healthy turf without stimulating excessive leaf growth.

If you’re inclined to fertilize only once a year, do it in September. If you would like to fertilize twice a year, do it in September and early November. And as always, read all fertilizer labels and follow the instructions.

Final Mowing Guidelines

• Use a different mowing pattern each time you mow
• DO NOT bump trees
• Do not mow when there is drought stress
• Do not mow when it is excessively wet

Be Safe

• Pick up all debris before mowing
• Keep hands and feet away from the blades

Be Environmentally Friendly

• DO NOT discharge clippings into the street
• Follow ozone alerts 

Mower Maintenance

• Keep mowing equipment in good working condition
• Have mower serviced prior to the heavy spring mowing period
• Keep mower blades sharp for a clean crisp cut

TIP: A dull mower blade frays the ends of the blades and results in brown tips which are unsightly. Have mower blades sharpened prior to the heavy mowing season.

Make Way for Hellebores

One of the very sure signals of winter’s departure is the emergence of Hellebore buds in my garden. Although some species can bloom as early as Christmas, mine are late winter bloomers, hence the common name Lenten Rose.

I grow Hellebores for their evergreen foliage, but the bonus is the very early blooms. They are relatively care-free and make great companion plants to my Hostas. Hellebores are typically sold as shade plants and that indeed is one of the benefits of this plant, but many Hellebores can receive a fair amount of sun all year long and do just fine.

When the weather cooperates, I jump outdoors and remove the old tattered foliage to reveal the emerging flower stalks beneath. This practice known as “deadleafing” shows off the flowers much better than leaving them to compete against the old battered foliage.

To begin, I inspect the plants to check how high the buds are. This is my cue for how close to let the pruners come to the plant’s interior. Note: On old leaves its normal to see browning and blackening of tissues as the individual leaves go through their natural life cycles. If you see this in otherwise active and healthy tissue, it could be a sign of a fatal disease known as “Black Death”.

Next, I snip away at the plant removing the old stems and leaves. This technique need not be precise. The new growth will eventually cover the snipped stems.

I collect the spent foliage and discard it away from the garden. This will reduce the spread of any harbored disease to other plants.

There, all nice and trim. Over the next week or so, the plant will fill out and hide the recent cuts. When blooms are spent, simply remove them and enjoy the lovely evergreen foliage all year long.

Although Hellebores will grow in a variety of soil conditions, adequate soil preparation is the key to long-term health and vigor. This is true for many ornamental perennials. Welcome Spring!

Tough Choices in Times of Drought

Between work at the garden center and home, I feel like the water wand is permanently attached to my hand. We are experiencing severe drought conditions here in the Midwest and that means we have tough choices to make. If you have to choose between lawn and plants for watering– choose plants.

My lawn (pictured above) has not been mown since late May. It simply has not rained enough for it to grow. Although it looks awful, I’m not too concerned about it. It’s actually gone into dormancy and can stay this way for some time before any irreversible damage* is done. On the other hand, flowers and plants will die off without regular watering. This includes trees and shrubs!

Here are a couple of good articles on watering and dealing with drought: 

Learn to Water Well

The Top 3 Rules for Tree Care

Drought Could Limit Garden Plants’ Development Next Year

If you have tips or techniques you’d like to share on dealing with drought, leave them in the comments section. We can all benefit from each other’s gardening experience.

*Note: If you have recently installed sod or seeded a lawn, you must water it until it is fully established. 

Lawn Mowing Tips

The American Lawn. A source of pride or just plain hassle? Regardless of your viewpoint, lawn mowing is once again in full swing. If you’re a DIYer, here are a few tips that will keep your lawn looking great all season long.

For a more in depth look at the hows and whys, see my post from last April: Lawn Mowing Guidelines. Feel free to pass along to friends, family, and neighbors. Happy mowing!

In Like a Lamb…Spring Chores, Tips & Reminders

March is just around the corner and our weatherman is predicting mild and pleasant weather. Could 2012 be the Midwest’s year without a winter? Does that mean that March will go out like a lion? I certainly hope not. And that’s all we can really do– hope. No matter what, there are many things we can and should do throughout March in preparation of spring’s official arrival. Below is a list to help you get growing this season.

Spring Garden Chores and Reminders

• Plan your vegetable garden before you plant. Ask yourself the following: How much space do you have? How much light does your plot get? Most vegetables require six hours of light each day. How much time can you dedicate to tending? What do you like to eat?

• Start seeds indoors so they are ready to transplant when the soil temperature warms.

• Mid-March is a good time to plant cool season crops such as cabbage, kale, chards, cauliflower and broccoli. A cool-season crop is defined as a vegetable that grows best with temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F. Cool-season crops can tolerate light to moderate frosts, but are intolerant of high summer temperatures.

• If this is your first vegetable garden, have your soil tested before you plant. Your local Cooperative Extension Office can help with this.

• Prepare garden beds by adding more organic material to your soil and work it in about 6 inches deep. This is a good yearly habit to get into.

• Now is a great time to get your mower in for a tune-up or take blades in for sharpening. Do it before everybody else does to avoid long waiting periods for service.

• Pick a day to bring out any patio furniture and clean, repair, or touch up as needed.

• Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools. Organize your garden shed/work area.

• While the garden is still dormant, take an objective look at “the bones” of your landscape and select areas that need improvement. Trees, evergreens, grasses and berry-covered shrubs will create structure and visual interest year round.

• Order mulch for beds and borders.

• On a sunny day, rake and pick-up fallen branches, twigs, leaves and any other debris from the winter months. Cut back ornamental grasses.

• For a burst of color, fill a few containers with pansies as soon they become available. Pansies can tolerate frost and freezing temperatures. Resist the urge to purchase warm season annuals until the danger of frost has past.

• Keep filling bird feeders this time of year as food is scarce in colder regions.

You're Getting Warmer. New USDA Hardiness Map

Crap! I think I need to change my blog name to Hortus | 6.

A recent update to the USDA Hardiness Zone Map shows that half of the nation is officially a half-zone warmer. With increased computing power available to researchers, more factors such as elevation, the slope of land, even heat generation from large cities, can be taken into account to produce finer zone delineations than ever before.

The new map was built using Geographic Information System technology. As a result, sharper boundaries and better resolution are noticeably different on the interactive map.

The Fun Part

If you want to see if your zone changed, click here. You will be prompted to enter your zip code.

If you live in Canada, use this link instead.

What’s The Big Deal?

The more accurate the info, the better success rate we all have. Gardeners, nurseries and plant breeders will now be able to apply the updated findings to their work. For gardeners, plants once thought to be not fit for the garden are now an option. The new data also affects the agricultural industry as the data is used for crop-risk assessment, and the spread of insects and exotic weeds.

Global Climate Change?

Maybe, maybe not. The USDA claims that a different set of data is used to figure those calculations. So, they’re not confirming that there is a trend toward global warming.

My Conslusion

So, it’s all making sense now. As a self proclaimed Zone-pusher, I had been slowly introducing Zone 6 plants to my Zone 5 garden and having good success with survival rate. I thought I was special. Turns out my instincts were right as I am now officially in Zone 6a. But really- should I change the blog name?

Kevin Collard– if you’re reading this, start picking out some cool Zone 7 stuff to ‘push’ at Sutherland!!  

Caring for Poinsettias

Poinsettias are America’s best selling flowering potted plant. Would you believe that each year Americans purchase over 60 million of this popular holiday plant? My favorite color is white, but the photo above would indicate that I don’t make all the decisions in our household. Choose your battles, right?

Anyway, the color red accounts for nearly three-quarters of all sales, followed by white and pink. Lately, there are all these crazy colors available as the result of dyes and paint. Oh wait! Can I have some glitter with my obnoxious airbrushed poinsettia? What’s up people? Stick to the classics. Good taste never goes out of style.

Below is a list of best practices to prolong the life of your poinsettia, no matter what color it is.

©Meadow View Growers Inc.

Caring for Poinsettia Plants

First and foremost, protect your plants from wind or cold on the way home from the store. They are highly sensitive to cold temps and just a few minutes of exposure below 50°F can cause them to wilt. Make sure they are wrapped properly for transport.

Once you’re home, unwrap your plant carefully and place it in indirect light. Six hours of light per day is ideal. You can diffuse bright light with shades, shudders or sheer curtains.

Keep poinsettias away from warm or cold drafts which can be caused by opening doors or windows, air registers and radiators. This is perhaps the best thing you can do to prolong the life of your poinsettias.

Keep poinsettias from touching cold windows.

Ideal temperatures for poinsettias: Daytime temps of 60° to 70°F  and night time temps around 50°F are ideal. High temps will shorten the plant’s life

Check the soil daily and water when dry. Water enough so the soil is moist but not soggy. If your poinsettia has a decorative foil or plastic wrapper around it, punch holes or cut out a circle in the bottom so water can drain out. Place a saucer beneath the pot to catch water. Discard excess water.

Want to save your poinsettia and have it rebloom next year? Good luck. I don’t recommend it as the process, while completely doable, requires constant care. Its like having a puppy. And, I’ve never known anyone to actually have rebloom happen. But if you really want to know how, follow this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS58ZkRTnqs

And there you have it. Following these simple tips will help keep your poinsettia looking lush and healthy throughout the entire holiday season.

Did You Know?

Most people think the colored parts of poinsettias are the flowers, but they are actually colored bracts. Bracts are modified leaves.

In nature, poinsettias are perennial flowering shrubs that can grow to ten feet tall.

Poinsettias are native to Mexico.

Poinsettias are not poisonous. Studies have shown that eating bracts will not kill you, but they might give you a stomach ache. Where did they find the people to be human test subjects for that study?!

Poinsettias were introduced into the United States in 1825 by Joel Poinsett.

December 12th is National Poinsettia Day.

Making a Holiday Wreath

©Jonathan Klunk-Interior Design Blog

Holiday wreaths can be fabricated from all sorts of materials that you already have in your own back yard. Evergreen cuttings, pine cones, dried seedheads and flowers, herbs, vines, and more can be crafted into beautiful works of art.

As a new member of the board of directors for The Historic Ambassador House & Heritage Gardens, I found this how-to video timely as we get ready to host our annual wreath and holiday crafting event. Armed with a glue gun and some good imagination, you can create a simple mixed pine cone wreath that will welcome friends and family to your home for years to come. Enjoy the video.

Historic Amabassador House Holiday Events:

Friends of Heritage Gardens Craft Event | Dec. 1, 2011 7PM - 9PM (sorry, no more reservations available)

Victorian Family Holiday Event | December 3, 2011 2PM - 4PM

For more information about these events, visit the Ambassador House & Heritage Gardens website. www.ambassadorhouse.org

Wreaths of Wonderland Express video from The Chicago Botanic Garden.

Happy Anniversary! Hortus|5 is 1.

It’s been a busy month with fall cleanup and prep for winter. As the gardens grow, so do the chores that accompany them. I’m happy to say that I’m ahead of schedule by a long shot according to my past blog entries. As I was revisiting them, it suddenly occurred to me that my blog is 1 year old. Our first anniversary!

My blog started out as mere curiosity but is now inherently vital as I’ve slowly given myself over to gardening. I don’t fancy myself a writer. Not even a little. I’m envious of my blogging peers like Kevin at Nitty Gritty Dirt Man and Lee at Lee May’s Gardening Life, who seem to have such a way with words. I thoroughly enjoy their blogs and marvel at the emotions that they are able to pull out of me as I read them.

Anyway– to commemorate this anniversary, I thought I’d give you a little tour of my office and talk about my process.

I use two of the three rooms on the third floor in our early 1920s house. Most of my writing happens in the room facing west. It receives very little filtered light which is perfect for my displays. My partner Michael is a CPA and occupies the largest room which faces north. It has a gorgeous view of the back lawn and creek. A little jealous.

I do all my work on a MacBook Pro (laptop) combined with an LED display (large screen) for detail work. If you’re thinking “boy this is fancy setup for blogging,” you’re absolutely right, but I do graphic design work as well. I specialize in print media for select clients.

The glass top Parsons style desk is bare right now, but there is usually a camera and a couple of books on it at any given time. The little file cabinet beneath holds supplies and files. There are way too many garden catalogs in there!

My inbox looks pretty good right now, but trust me, it get’s out of control pretty fast. The Farrow & Ball brochures are for color research. I’m contemplating an interior paint job for the first floor this winter.

To my right is a bank of printers- a black & white laser plus two inkjet printers. The largest inkjet can print 13 x 19 inches of photo quality prints.

To the left of my desk are two small bookshelves which I consider ‘rotating’ bookshelves. Because I write many instructional posts, I keep several books and journals at hand for research and fact checking. I also keep my Purdue Extension Master Gardener handbooks nearby.

I love my sturdy green binders with the finger hole cutouts. The binders are by Naked Binder. These 3-ring binders keep my paper documents well organized and at hand so I can grab-and-go for meetings. Each binder is dedicated to a specific garden topic or organization that I am affiliated with.

Here are a few of the titles that I’m currently referencing the most. At any given time, I may swap these out for different ones. What you don’t see are the shelves in the other rooms that are overflowing with garden, art, and design books. The top surface of the shelves is dedicated to new favorites and file folders for current projects. Kind of obsessed with Piet Oudolf right now.

The wall opposite of my desk is used for storage. The lateral file holds more files and supplies. I’m trying to train myself to not let it be a catchall. The stuff on top is a pile of plant tags that need to be filed away. The little white box on the left is Apple’s AirPort Extreme which provides high-speed wireless throughout the house.

This chair doesn’t see much action in summer because I’m usually outside all day. However, in winter I make good use of it. This nook is perfect for catching up on periodicals, garden catalogs or a book. The small windows offer a glimpse of the current weather conditions and catch the elusive rays of late afternoon sun during the cold weather months.

I use many software programs for my Hortus|5 posts. Most stories utilize a combination of Microsoft Word, Apple iPhoto, Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, and finally Squarespace. But before any work happens, I can tell you this- the photos come first. I follow this mantra: Shoot now, think later. I’m often inspired by an event or something I see and then write about it. Rarely do I compose a story and then support it with visuals. I use a Nikon D3100 for nearly all of my photos. My iPhone is my second camera.

I typically compose the entire story in Microsoft Word first. I try really hard to get it ‘right’ in Word before anything else happens. Sometimes, if the post is a quicky, I forgo Word. As I write, the supporting images are running through my head. Often, I have iPhoto up alongside Word so I can see the images as I write.

Next, I make the final image selections and do simple edits in iPhoto such as rotating, and cropping. Then I open all the final images in Photoshop and optimize them for Web use. This process literally downsizes the file size to my specifications while retaining as much detail as possible. In the end, this allows the images to load faster and since you never know what device your blog will be viewed on (phone, tablet or monitor), speed is important. Many blog platforms have storage limits- that’s another reason to reduce file size. Last, I rename and save the images in JPEG format. I add my blog name as part of the image title. Example: juniper_hortus5.jpg

If I need special graphics or charts in my story, I try to create them myself in a drawing program. An example of this would be in my How To Plant A Tree post. All the tree and text graphics were created in Illustrator.

Finally, when all the components are together, I launch Squarespace and post a new entry. The editing window in Squarespace is similar to other blog platforms. I jump back and forth between editing and preview to see how it’s looking. Even though I devote so much time to writing in Word, inevitably there are edits and tweaks that happen once I see the post in its final form. I may even change images altogether. I think one of the most difficult challenges in writing is putting yourself in place of the reader- looking at it objectively. Since many of my posts include detailed information, I spend a great deal of time checking facts, syntax and sequence prior to publishing. I liken it to a recipe.

I have discovered that it’s best for me to complete a post and walk away from it for an extended period of time before publishing it. I catch more mistakes that way, like misspellings and words that have been left out. When all is good, I check the ‘publish’ box. Still, I’m so fastidious that I keep reading and tweaking until midnight hoping to catch any mistakes before Feedburner sends out the email notification to my subscribers. Of course, the beauty of online publishing is that no mistake is final- you can always correct it on-the-fly. I have found mistakes in posts that are months old!

I chose Squarespace because of it’s elegant format. I didn’t want my blog to look too similar to anyone else’s and Squarespace offers many customizing options. One thing to note is that Squarespace is not free, but it’s stable and the support team is excellent! Alexander Pincus from Bureau V is pretty much responsible for introducing me to Squarespace and helped me set up my site. I handle it on my own now, but I’d like to thank him for his insight and patience when I was just starting out.

So, in a nutshell, that’s how I do it. I wonder how other bloggers do it? I’d love to hear about your writing process if you blog. I find it’s a great medium for sharing ideas and how-to advice. Gardening is an experiential endeavor. You could never fully understand it by simply reading books and websites, but I hope my blog sheds some light on this very diverse topic. Onward and Upward!

Conquering Clay Soil

One of the last lines in the movie A Single Man are by the character George:

A few times in my life I’ve had moments of absolute clarity, when for a few brief seconds the silence drowns out the noise and I can feel rather than think, and things seem so sharp and the world seems so fresh. I can never make these moments last. I cling to them, but like everything, they fade. I have lived my life on these moments. They pull me back to the present, and I realize that everything is exactly the way it was meant to be.

I share those exact sentiments and they often translate to my gardening life.

Such was the moment when I came to understand that clay soil could not be effectively amended, at least not in large quantities. And as Indiana gardeners know, heavy clay soil can wear you down to the point of ‘throwing in the trowel.’ For a solid year I pondered the over-the-fence advice of gardeners and landscapers alike, each with their own proven method for dealing with clay soil. I listened, and researched– pouring myself over notes from my Master Gardner course and yet I remained stuck, as if planted in concrete. Their simple remedies, which ranged from incorporating additives such gypsum or topsoil, to “do nothing and wait it out.” All seemed doable, but felt instinctively wrong. Why did I remain so firm in my skepticism? I’d witnessed plants decline. Wished my shovel would magically turn into a jackhammer. I’d even seen the concrete-like surface refuse the Mantis, and in spots where it would take, it simply rickashayed off the many rocks or become tangled in tree roots. Only then did it occur to me that perhaps I was best qualified to make the decision on how to proceed. After all, it was me who had any actual experience with the soil.

And suddenly it hit me. An idea I’m sure I had suppressed long ago in hopes of substituting with a more academic solution– remove the bad soil. My moment of absolute clarity. And so began my extreme intervention. The intent? To remove at least 12 inches of the untillable soil and replace it with a mixture of top soil and organic matter.

This would not be an easy task. The area in question was quite large. I created the diagram below to record my measurements and calculate how much fill I would need to replace the bad soil. It also served as a guideline for the excavator I was about to hire. The slide show below documents the details of this saga. 

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Fall 2009: We regrade the East side of the front lawn after the 85 year old sewer line fails earlier that spring. The lawn has been dug at least 15 feet deep and has been settling all summer.

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Besides regrading, we add a layer of top soil and mulch heavily. It is a gorgeous November day and everything is going well.

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These Hydrangeas and Yews had been in the ground for one season before they were dug up. They spent their second season in pots while the excavation work took place and the soil settled.

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The crew replants and prepares the beds. A few weeks prior, I receive a Peony order and they are planted at the other end of the bed.

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Spring 2010: Eager to get the rest of the bed planted. 70 Liriope Variegata have been delivered and they need to get in the ground fast. This is when we discover the severity of the clay problem.

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This detail clearly illustrates what we are dealing with. We try to spot ammend as we go. 

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The new Peonies in spring 2010. Surprisingly, they seem to be doing ok in the clay. No wonder they are the Indiana state flower! We are hesistant to plant much else in the bed.

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The Liriope has done well throughout summer, but the clay is unable to absorb significant rain fast enough. The topsoil and mulch are washing away.

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Spring 2011: Once again, the peonies push through the clay, but my spirits are sinking. This soil sucks!

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As the summer droughts ensue, it is literally hard as a rock. It develops large cracks as it dries out. This worsens poor drainage.

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It is also littered with rock and pebbles. I can take it any more. Time to get estimates for labor and materials.

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A day before the work begins, I remove any plant material worth saving.

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A drain is also removed. Of course, it is in the high 90s and humidity is unbearable.

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This is the staging area for the plants that have been saved. At the last minute, I also dig out some Yews so we can raise the grade beneath them.

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24 hours before the excavation, I have the new material delivered. Luckily there is an empty lot between the two houses where we can hold the material.

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I contract with a local excavator who has done some work for our neighbors. Although we cannot avoid the tree roots, he knows to back off to minimize damage to the major roots.

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I am impressed with how close he gets to the existing plant material with that big machinery. In the end, we decide to work around the Liriope, Peonies and Oakleaf Hydrangeas as they seem to be doing well.

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All dug out and ready for the new fill.

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Bring it on!

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Load after load is placed in the newly dug bed.

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What a difference in the new material! I selected Marks Mix from Indiana Mulch. Marks Mix is a composition of mushroom compost, black top soil, peat moss and hardwood fines.

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The boys rake the new medium and level it out. They complain about the smell the whole time. Mushroom compost is a totally organic, rich, moist mixture of wheat straw, peat moss, cottonseed meal, cottonseed hulls, corncobs, cocoa bean shells, gypsum, lime, chicken litter and/or horse stable bedding. This combination of ingredients is used in commercial mushroom farms to grow mushrooms. Following production of mushrooms the compost is cooked off at 160 degrees for 10 hours to kill undesirable pests and is usually free from weed seeds. No wonder it smells!

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In less than 8 hours, the whole project is complete. The sprinkler is run to help settle the new medium. The small pile in the background will be used to fill in low spots and ammend other areas around the property. 

I now consider this my most significant gardening project to date. The expense and effort have been worth it. Already, the plants are thriving more than they have in the past two years. And when it rains, or I turn on a sprinkler (which is more the case these days), I sleep well knowing that those precious drops are being absorbed deeply, that the plants are benefiting from their new environment. And I now look forward to gardening again- and that’s what it’s all about.

So I close this post with another memorable quote from George.

If one is not enjoying one’s present, there isn’t a great deal to suggest that the future should be any better.

Raised Bed Gardening

There is something new this year in the vegetable garden– raised beds. They have long been a gardener’s favorite because they make it possible to have the best possible soil without having to fix the problems in your existing soil. This is how we made ours.

We selected a product called the M Brace for our raised beds. I fell in love with their stylish form and promise of speed and convenience. There are many prefab kits and products on the market, but DIYers can fashion raised beds out of many different materials including synthentic composites made from recycled plastic or rubber, concrete block and brick, or any naturally rot-resistant woods.

Our materials consisted of the steel M Braces, lumber, a few concrete pavers (optional), and growing media. The size of each bed measures 4 x 8 feet and 16 inches deep. Since the area for the beds was uneven, it required a bit of digging to meet the goal of levelness. I set some concrete pavers beneath the steel corners in hopes of minimizing settling. This step was not necessary, but I’m fastidious about these sorts of things. Digging was actually the hardest part of this project. From here on out, it went very fast.

Of the 10 eight-foot pieces, only 4 required cutting to make the short sides. Once the lumber was cut, it literally took no more than 5 minutes to assemble each bed. I simply slid the boards into the corners and was done. I gotta admit, I was pretty impressed by how easy it was to build the walls of each bed. Any extra soil from digging was placed in the center of each bed and eventually leveled out.

Next, the fill. It’s important to choose a good growing medium for your beds. Do not skimp here. Ordinary soil alone will become compacted and that only leads to poor aeration and water drainage. Instead, make your own growing media or purchase a premixed potting soil from a garden supply store.

We’re using Mark’s Mix from our local mulch supplier, Indiana Mulch & Stone. Mark’s Mix is composed of Mushroom Compost, Black Top Soil, Peat Moss and Hardwood Fines. Of all these ingredients, Mushroom Compost is the most beneficial. It’s a totally organic, rich, moist mixture of wheat straw, peat moss, cottonseed meal, cottonseed hulls, corncobs, cocoa bean shells, gypsum, lime, chicken litter and/or horse stable bedding. This combination of ingredients is used in commercial mushroom farms to grow mushrooms. Following mushroom production, the compost is cooked off at 160° F for 10 hours to kill undesirable pests and is usually free from weed seeds.

The mix was delivered and we went right to work filling each bed. Prior to filling, I laid a piece of semipermeable weed barrier (landscape cloth) that allows air and water to pass through. My goal is to keep the vegetable roots from reaching the original soil, hence the 16 inch depth of the beds.

With the sun setting, the beds were filled. Next steps will include planting the vegetables and mulching around the perimeter of each bed. Check back soon for a progress report. Until then… keep growing.

Benefits of Raised Bed Gardening:

Raised beds are designed so you don’t step in them, thereby reducing soil compaction. A properly designed raised bed allows you to garden from the path outside of the bed.

Raised beds can extend your planting season since they tend to warm up and dry out sooner in spring, allowing for earlier planting. They also remain productive later in the fall.

If you have limited mobility, you can make a ‘standing’ raised bed so it is more accessible. This can eliminate kneeling or bending as you garden.

Plants can be planted closer together in a raised because you don’t need places to step. This increases your productivity per square foot.

Soil conditions can be controlled more efficiently in a raised bed. They can even be varied from bed to bed.

Once the bed is constructed, soil preparation becomes minimized in future years.

Design Tips:

Beds that can be accessed from one side only should be no more than 2 feet wide. If you can reach the bed from both sides it could be up to 4 feet wide. Remember, you want to keep the soil light, loose and untrampled while you plant and weed.

Make sure the path between the beds is wide enough to access all sides.

Raised beds don’t require frames. They can be as simple as a heap of soil on the ground.

Raised beds do not have to be tall. Raising the soil just a few inches will improve water drainage.

No side support is necessary for shallow beds less than 6 inches tall. Gently slope the sides of smaller beds to prevent soil erosion from water and wind.

No saw? Have your lumber precut to your specifications before you bring it home.

Links:

Art of the Garden: creators of the M Brace | artofthegarden.net

Eartheasy: great prefab kits if you’re not handy | eartheasy.com

Indiana Mulch & Stone: downtown Indy’s mulch supplier | indianamulch.com

Children and Gardening

At age 3, our nephew Miles is learning about the importance of light and water to make things grow.

Children are fascinated by worms and insects. When left to their own devices, they enjoy digging, playing with water and making mud pies. But can this translate into an appreciation for gardening and respect for nature? I believe it can. A small Children’s Garden might just be the activity they need to make the connection.

For me, a Children’s Garden is a foreign concept since I grew up on a farm where gardening was serious business. No time for cutesy ornaments or whimsical elements to entice me. We had to “produce” and I was expected to help get the job done– no matter what my age. That’s certainly one way to approach gardening with children, but the risk is that you might end up discouraging the child instead of inspiring them.

I recently completed an extensive project for the Master Gardener Association of which I am a member. The project included designing and creating demonstrations for Cold Frames, Vegetable Gardens, a Greenhouse, a Grape Arbor and a Children’s Garden. As the 35 volunteers broke into smaller teams, I landed in the veggie garden group. Among many tasks, I would also be responsible for creating signage for each demonstration area. I was still having a hard time grasping the concept of a children’s garden and was apprehensive about that particular sign. The work began and I watched intently on the how the Children’s Garden (adjacent to the veggie garden) was taking shape. As time passed, I saw the little garden grow. With each passing phase, I began to understand the components for creating a successful area that could teach and inspire a young mind, and equally important, be fun!

The Children’s Garden created by members of the Purdue Marion County Master Gardener Association. Behind the small wheelbarrow, a platform lid can be lifted to reveal a sandbox.The sign created for visitors to the garden reads: Gardening with kids will turn digging in the dirt into a lifetime of love and respect for nature. Simple and fun-to-grow seed selections are favorites of young gardeners. Try smaller plant varieties in containers as well. 

Here are some tips for creating a Children’s Garden:

• Keep it small so the garden isn’t overwhelming. Measuring out a yardstick garden is plenty big for very young children.

• Give children a separate space to garden and involve them in selecting the space. This is a great teaching opportunity for you to talk about what is required for a successful garden.

• If space is very limited, gardening in containers can be fun and just as productive. Allow your child to exercise creativity by letting them choose the containers. Just remember to have good drainage in each container.

• Encourage enthusiasm by planting seeds that mature quickly.

• Vegetables are a good choice and among the most popular are radishes, pumpkins, carrots, lettuces, peas, broccoli and potatoes.

• Children are more encouraged to eat vegetables that they have grown themselves. Allow them to share in the harvest and preparation of the veggies.

• Make tripod supports out of twigs or bamboo so climbing plants such as beans, sugar snap peas, or nasturtiums grow up into a teepee shape.

• Add interest to the garden by adding some flowers. Be sure any flowers you plant are non-toxic.

• Garden ornaments and decorative elements make the garden visually stimulating. Colorful windmills add movement and discourage birds and critters from making the garden their favorite lunch buffet.

• Leave behind your ‘adult’ ideas about gardening. Perfectly straight rows are not necessary. The garden could be circular in design. You could make a pizza garden and divide the planting areas into wedge-shaped sections.

• Keep tasks short. Make a game out of pulling weeds or set short time limits to see how many weeds can be pulled in the allotted time. Post a garden calendar in your child’s room or on the refrigerator and cross off the days when each task is completed.

• Children should have their own tools for gardening. Be creative by using old heavy kitchen spoons for digging and measuring cups for scoops. Child-sized tools can also be purchased at most garden shops.

• Keep the emphasis on fun and creativity. If your child would rather play in the soil or look at insects instead of pull weeds, it’s ok. They’re still learning!

• Always seize the “teachable moment.” Don’t fight their short attention span. Explore and talk through the wonders they find.

• Keep safety in mind. Have your soil tested prior to planting any edible garden. Resist the urge to use poisonous chemicals and sprays on a child’s garden.

Final thoughts: I can only remember one growing project I had in elementary school (4th grade). That was a long time ago… but I still remember it. As an adult, I now wonder what kind of impact we could have on our youth if they were exposed to more plant-based learning? All educators can use outdoor gardens, natural settings or plant activities in their classroom lessons to enhance a child’s education. I applaud those schools that do. Until this happens in every school, we should all do our part to work with the little ones in our lives and make the most of all the teachable moments.

Lawn Mowing Guidelines

My always-reliable Honda push mower.The secret to a great looking lawn lies in the mowing. Sure, you may need to fertilize or use a herbicide from time to time, but proper mowing can help your lawn look lush and healthy all season long while reducing the need for chemical applications. Follow my mowing guidelines (riding or pushing) to stay on the cutting edge: 

• Mow at 3 inches

• Mow frequently

• Return the clippings

• Fertilize in the fall

Let’s break it down…

Mowing Height

There are many benefits to keeping your mowing height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Chief among them is weed control.

It may seem counterintuitive, but mowing too short will increase weeds in the lawn. Like most plants, weeds want and need sun to grow. If you mow your lawn really short, you’re just giving them what they want. Consequently, weeds such as crabgrass and dandelions will proliferate. So set your mower at 3 inches and leave it there. It will minimize weed population.

Most species of grass do well with a mowing height anywhere between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. I think 3 inches looks great and is easy to remember. If you have a play area for children, I recommend you mow at 3.5 inches. It will feel luxurious and help soften their fall.

Lawns that are mowed at the recommended height will have deeper, stronger root systems and better color overall.Place on a hard surface such as a sidewalk or driveway. With the mower powered OFF, measure up from the bottom to the blade level and adjust to your preferred mowing height.

Mow Frequently

Follow the one-third rule. Mow as frequently as needed but never remove more than one-third of the leaf blades at once. Removing more than one-third may cause root growth to cease while the leaves and shoots are regrowing. You may need to mow up to twice a week in the spring, but only once every 2 to 3 weeks in the summer.

Return the Clippings

Ok, I’ll admit that I don’t always follow this guideline when I mow the front lawn in early spring. The back yard always gets the clippings returned. It doesn’t matter if you have a “mulching” mower or not, a discharge mower returns clippings just fine.

You return up to 25% of fertilizer nutrients back to the lawn in the clippings. And contrary to popular belief, clippings do NOT contribute significantly to thatch build-up. You will also help reduce water evaporation by returning the clippings. Bagging the grass takes a third more time to complete the job. Who wants that? 

One final point: if you must bag your clippings, please do not throw them in the trash. This can increase your trash by up to 10% and take up unnecessary space in landfills. A better option is to use the clippings as a mulch.

Fertilize in the Fall

This is an easy one. Like most people, I’m mowing frequently in the spring and don’t need to increase the need for mowing by adding fertilizer. Fall fertilization promotes a healthy turf without stimulating excessive leaf growth.

If you’re inclined to fertilize only once a year, do it in September. If you would like to fertilize twice a year, do it in September and early November. And as always, read all labels and follow the instructions.

Final Mowing Guidelines

• Use a different mowing pattern each time you mow
• DO NOT bump trees

• Do not mow when there is drought stress
• Do not mow when it is excessively wet

Be Safe

• Pick up all debris before mowing
• Keep hands and feet away from the blades

Be Environmentally Friendly

• DO NOT discharge clippings into the street
• Follow ozone alerts 

Mower Maintenance

• Keep mowing equipment in good working condition
• Have mower serviced prior to the heavy spring mowing period
• Mower blades should be sharped each spring and as needed throughout the season 

TIP: A dull mower blade frays the ends of the blades and results in brown tips which are unsightly. Have mower blades sharpened prior to the heavy mowing season.

Time To Control Crabgrass

I mowed the lawn this week for the first time this season and that’s got me thinking about lawn maintenance. Indiana was very hot and extremely dry last year, which made for crabgrass proliferation. Our lawn was definitely affected and to help control it this year, I am applying a Preemergence Herbicide. The word “Preemergence” is key here. The prefix “pre” literally means that this type of herbicide must be applied BEFORE the crabgrass emerges.

I’m using a product by Scott’s called Halts. You can find this as well as many other products at your local hardware store. It’s in granular form, so I’ll simply dump the contents into the mini spreader and walk it over the grass. As the wheels turn, the product is broadcast onto the yard with even coverage.

So how does one know when germination will occur?

Check with your local extension office to see the predicted crabgrass germination date for your area. Remember that preemergence herbicides must be applied at least two weeks prior to these dates to control crabgrass. In Indianapolis, the date is April 21– now count back two weeks and that’s when you should apply the product. Many of these products can be applied as early as mid March. I think April 1st is good and easy to remember.

There are other seasonal indicators for crabgrass germination. If you see any of these, it’s probably to late for a Preemergence herbicide.

• When redbuds are in full bloom
• Before lilacs bloom
• Before forsythia blooms drop
• Before dandelions reach puff ball stage

All is not lost though. If you can’t get to it before germination occurs, you’ll have to wait until it is visible and apply at Postemergence herbicide. Postemergence herbicides control crabgrass after it has emerged and are most successful on small crabgrass plants. These types of products are a bit more difficult to use. Check with your local hardware store or garden center for product recommendations. And always remember to read the label before using any product.

Radical Pruning

Houseplants are tricky. They either flourish or flatline. That’s been my experience at least. But perhaps more frustrating is when they lie in limbo- no new growth, no new foliage.

Such was the case with a Maidenhair Fern I purchased at Smith & Hawken several years ago. It was more or less at a standstill and getting ‘leggy’ as time passed. I noticed several baby fronds pushing their way out of the soil, but they never matured. I decided I would try some radical pruning and see where that took us.

My thought process began with sizing up the plant. It was healthy, but not growing. It was as though it had gone into a permanent state of dormancy. It was tall, sparse, and new fronds emerged from the soil but withered away soon after. This led me to believe that the old growth was using all the plant energy and preventing the new growth from maturing.

Drastic pruning stresses a plant, but spring is right around corner and it’s the absolute best time of the year to prune a houseplant– just before the start of the growing season.

Emotionally, I’m to the point where I’m willing to lose the plant if it doesn’t survive the big haircut. I’m optimistic that it will prevail. After all, those new little fronds tell me that it is intent on growing.

So here’s my plan: I’m going to cut off all the stems at the base, be diligent about keeping the soil moist and raise the humidity around the fern to encourage new growth. Follow the progress below. 

Jan. 19, 2011. After removing the old growth, tiny fronds are revealed.February 11, 2011. The momentum continues and new fronds are still emerging. Adding a bit fertilizer today.March 18, 2011. The fertilizer has helped tremendously. It looks better than ever.New growth continues to emerge.

I’m happy to report that this experiment has proved successful. It’s officially spring now and the fern seems quite content with the situation. It continues to grow and become full with healthy fronds. I’ll report back on our progress near summer.

Say No To Mulch Volcanoes

‘Mulch Volcano’ is term used to describe a deep pile of mulch around the base of a tree or shrub that forms a mound or volcano shape. You see them everywhere, especially on or around commercial properties, as grounds crews and gardeners alike are busy applying hardwood mulches to beds, borders and trees.

Generally speaking, there are many benefits to mulching, but I wonder if people see these volcanoes and think it s ok to copy this? It most certainly is not and there are several reasons why one should avoid it.

The consequences of overmulching trees and shrubs:

Piling soil, mulch, or both, against the trunk flare has been shown to prevent needed gas exchange causing the inner bark tissue (phloem) stress, dysfunction and subsequent root stress.

Overmulching can promote excessive soil moisture which can lead to root rot.

Fungal and bacterial diseases, crown and butt rot can also be caused by excessive mulching.

Mulch that touches the trunk of a tree can lead to rodents chewing on the bark as well as insect problems.

So, what s the proper way to mulch? Follow these guidelines:

Apply the mulch to the surface of the soil anywhere from 2 to 4 inches thick.

Do not allow the mulch to touch the trunk or stems. Keep it about 3 to 6 inches away.

Apply the mulch from the center of the tree to the dripline if practical. Otherwise, at least a 3-foot radius around the trunk.

 

Hardiness Zones explained

I know, I know. The map looks crazy and confusing will all the colors, but it’s quite easy to figure out. I’ll tell you how.

If you’ve ever shopped for plants, you’ve no doubt noticed some information about Hardiness Zones either on the tag or in the description. A Hardiness Zone for plants helps you know what will grow in a given area. Simply put, not all plants will grow where you live. It’s either going to be too hot or too cold for some plants to survive. Knowing your own Zone will make you a smarter consumer saving you time, money, and frustration by purchasing those plants which have the ability to survive winter conditions in your area.

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map is considered the standard measure for plant hardiness throughout the United States. To find your Zone, click on the link below. The map is interactive- simply enter your zip code to find your zone.

http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

Pretty simple. The map tells you exactly what your Zone number is. It even breaks down further by A or B (i.e., 5A or 5B), but generally the whole number is all you really need to know.

How the map came to be

Several years ago, botanists and horticulturists began gathering weather records in North America and recording average coldest temperatures for each region. The records were condensed and grouped into temperature ranges. Each range became a “zone” and mapped onto a map of North America, hence the formation of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.

About the Zones

There are 13 Zones in North America. Zone 1 is the coldest and Zone 13 is the warmest. Z13 is found only in Hawaii and Puerto Rico. The coldest zones are generally found at higher latitude and higher elevations. 

Tip: The higher the number, the warmer the zone

How to read plant tags and descriptions

Whether you shop online, by catalog, or at a nursery or garden center, most hardy plants will give you some sort of hardiness zone information. 

• If it is phrased “to Zone 5,” that generally means that the plant will survive the winters in Zones 5 and warmer.

• If it gives you a range (i.e., Zone 3 to 9), that means the plant will only grow in those zones and not likely to survive outsize of that range.

Remember, the hardiness zone map is a very good guide, but it’s up to you to determine for yourself what will and won’t work in your garden.

Reliability of the map

As I mentioned before, it’s not completely reliable because factors other than cold temperatures impact plant survival. One must also consider things like soil type, rainfall, daytime temps, hours of sunlight, wind, humidity, and heat. Regions with the same zone number can differ from each other in many ways.

For instance, I live in Indianapolis, IN in Zone 6. There are portions of Arizona that are also Zone 6, but I’m certain our climates have little in common other than how cold our winters can get. You can also have microclimates with your immediate area which can affect how plants grow. The good news is your local nurseries and garden centers are inclined to mostly carry what works in your zone and very few things that are outside of your zone. Read the plant tags to be certain.

What’s a microclimate?

A microclimate is essentially a climate that differs from the surrounding area due to variations in the environment. Examples include walls and structures, hills/slopes, bodies of water, etc. All of these can create a microclimate which can range in size from a few square feet, to a square mile. A house or garage can reflect sun onto the ground and block wind all year round creating a microclimate in that particular area of your yard.

Final Thoughts

It gets tricky where one zone borders another. Remember the map is only a guide, albeit a very good guide. You may find that some plants designated for your zone won’t make it while others not designated for your zone will. Be wise and stick mostly to plants designated to your zone– those best suited for growing and surviving in your neck of the woods.