Trees and Shrubs 50% Off! Most Garden Centers and Nurseries have great sales this time of year to reduce inventory before winter. The good news for you is that fall is a perfect time to plant trees because the soil temperature is still warm enough to allow good root development, and close enough to winter so the tree goes into dormancy naturally. The advantage to the latter is that you don’t have to constantly water as you would during hot summer months. In some regions, you can plant into late November if the soil is tillable and remains unfrozen.
Garden Centers and nurseries typically sell trees that are either Balled and Burlapped or Containerized. Containerized trees are ever more popular since they are lighter weight and easier to move around. Here are the differences in the two:
Balled and burlapped (B&B) - These plants are dug from a production field with an undisturbed ball of soil around the roots. Workers wrap the soil in burlap, bind them with twine or wire and pin them together with nails. They may place the ball in a wire framework or basket.
Container Grown Trees. Photo ©Eaton Farms
Containerized Trees - Nurseries sell these in pots. These plants may have grown in the container for a year or more; may have been dug bare-root and planted in the pot earlier that year; or may have been field-grown, dug with a soil ball, and potted. Both B & B and containerized plants usually cost more than bare root plants. However, since you move soil with the roots, the plant is more likely to survive.
Trees are less commonly sold as Bare-root or Machine-balled trees.
Bare-root - These are usually the least expensive nursery plants. Nursery workers dig them when they’re dormant. You must protect the roots from drying out and from mechanical damage. You should plant them only while they are dormant.
Machine-balled - Nursery workers dig these plants bare-root, then pack the roots in sphagnum peat moss or wood shavings and wrap them in plastic. Handle them carefully to avoid breaking roots. These, too, should be planted while they’re still dormant.
Handle B&B and containerized plants by the soil ball or pot only. Avoid lifting them by the trunk or crown. Be sure to water them to keep the soil moist (usually once a day), but don’t stand the root ball or the container in water.
Plan Before You Plant
Select trees that are right for your site. Ask yourself what role you want your tree to play. The center of attention? Part of a living wall that screens or divides an area? A compliment to an existing tree? Look at the space where you are going to plant and estimate the height and diameter of a mature tree that will fit there. Be conscious of the shade pattern that will be created when the tree matures. Research the species to confirm whether or not the tree produces any type of fruit. Fruit drop can be messy and aggravating in high traffic areas.
Check your site to see if the soil drains well or stays wet. Improving soil drainage and aeration on a large scale is difficult and expensive. If you can’t extensively rework a poorly drained site, be sure to select plant species that can tolerate soggy or clayey conditions.
The last step in planning is to select the right specimen. Research online or work with a reputable nursery/garden center to finalize your selections. Having all your site requirements will speed up the selection process immensely.
Tip for making a purchase: I never buy trees at big box stores because they simply don’t look well cared for. They often have many broken branches which are a sign of mistreatment.
The Planting Process
Be sure that the containerized tree has been watered recently, within a few hours of planting.
Dig a shallow, broad hole. In general, you want the soil level of the original container to match the soil level of the new location. Dig only as deep as the root ball.
The width of the hole is just as important as the depth. You want the width two to three times the width of the original container. I like to dig the bottom of the hole twice as wide as the container and flare out so the top of the hole is equal to three times the width of the container. A cross section of the hole would look like a cupcake or muffin- wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. This loosens compacted soil for the roots to easily expand as they grow. Tip: Set the soil from the hole onto a tarp or plastic sheet to make cleanup easier.
Find the root flare. This is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point must be partially visible after the tree has been planted. If it is not partially visible, you might have to remove a bit of soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine the proper depth of the hole for planting. Once the hole is dug, tamp down the soil at the base to prevent unexpected settling. Next, carefully remove the tree from the container. Note: Always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk. With your fingers, gently loosen the soil around the root ball (including the bottom). This action ‘communicates’ to the roots that they are no longer in a pot and can grow outward beyond the shape of the container. If you see ANY long roots that completely encircle the root ball, cut them off. Likewise, remove any fabric, plastic, string or wire from around the trunk and root ball being careful not to damage the roots or trunk in the process.
Place the tree in the hole. Check the depth again and adjust if necessary. Fact: Most of the roots of a newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. Planting too deep will create a lack of oxygen and the new roots will have difficulty developing. Tip: Never bury the root flare. It’s better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the root flare, than to plant it below the original growing level. My friend Kevin Collard has a little saying that’s easy to remember and a good rule of thumb: “Plant ’em low, they’ll never grow.”
Before backfilling, stand back and view the tree from many different angles to confirm it is straight. Mix the topsoil and subsoil together and begin backfilling. Most of the time, you can use the same soil that came out of the hole to backfill. You can even add some organic matter to the mix. To avoid burning roots, never add dry fertilizers or fresh manure to the backfill mix.
Backfill the hole three-fourths full and fill it with water. Let the water drain. This settles the soil and eliminates air pockets around the roots. Do not pack the soil after it’s been watered. Check one more time to make sure the root flare has not settled below the ground level. Finish filling the hole.
Protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. Now is the time to stake the tree to stabalize it. Drive stakes deep enough to hit undisturbed ground. Be careful not to drive stakes into the root ball and risk damaging the roots. Materials used to tie the tree to the stake should be flexible and allow for some movement all the way down to the ground so the trunk develops correctly. Tip: Recycle old garden hose by threading wire through a piece and looping it around the trunk. Make loops loose to avoid damaging the tree.
Important Note: Remove all staking after one complete growing season or one year. It’s not a good idea to leave the tree staked for more than one year.
Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch will help hold moisture and reduce competition from grass and weeds. You can mulch with many different organic matters such as leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A layer of 2 to 4 inches is ideal. More than 4 inches may interfere with oxygen and moisture levels. NEVER allow the mulch to touch the trunk. Keep it at least 6 inches away to avoid decaying the living bark at the base of the tree. You can mulch out as far as the drip line of the tree. Remember this phrase when mulching: “Go wide, not deep.”
Barring any rain, water your tree at least once a week. Keep watering until mid-fall, then taper off as lower temperatures set in. If you’re subject to dry summers, maintain a regular watering program for at least two growing seasons. Prune off any badly damaged or broken branches right after planting. Avoid any additional corrective pruning for at least one year.
Following these easy steps will ensure that your trees grow and thrive. When questions arise about caring for your tree, be sure to consult with your local Extension Office, a Certified Arborist or a garden center professional.
